From the The RAKUS Clinic, Knightsbridge
Regenerative aesthetics is becoming an increasingly important part of how we approach skin ageing, but it is also a term that can be easily misunderstood.
Julaine, polynucleotides and exosomes are all described as regenerative treatments, yet they do not do the same thing. One primarily stimulates collagen, another focuses more broadly on skin repair and quality, while the third uses cellular signalling to support regeneration within the skin.
Understanding these differences is far more useful than trying to decide which treatment is simply “best”.
At RAKUS Clinic in Knightsbridge, we often see patients who know they want to improve their skin but are less certain about what has actually changed. Perhaps it feels thinner than it used to, the under-eye area has become crepey, the lower face has lost some firmness or the complexion does not seem to recover and renew quite as effectively.
These changes may appear together, but they do not necessarily have the same cause. This is where regenerative aesthetics becomes particularly interesting. Rather than asking how we can temporarily disguise a change, we can consider what the skin needs to function, repair and support itself more effectively.
How Does Collagen Stimulation Work?
Collagen is one of the main structural proteins within the skin. In the dermis, it forms a supportive framework that gives skin its strength, firmness and resilience, while elastin allows it to stretch and return to shape.
Our skin continually produces and remodels collagen, but this process becomes less efficient with age. Fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and other components of the skin’s extracellular matrix, become less active, while existing collagen becomes more fragmented and less well organised.
Over time, this weakens the skin’s underlying support structure. We begin to see this as thinner skin, fine lines, reduced elasticity and, eventually, increasing laxity.
Collagen stimulation works by creating a controlled signal within the tissue that activates the skin’s natural repair and remodelling response. Fibroblasts are encouraged to become more active and produce new collagen, which is gradually incorporated into the skin’s supporting framework.
This is not an immediate process. New collagen needs time to form, mature and reorganise, which is why treatments that rely on collagen stimulation tend to produce progressive changes over several weeks and months.
The aim is not simply to create “more collagen”, but to encourage healthier tissue remodelling so that the skin gradually becomes better supported, firmer and more resilient.
Julaine vs Polynucleotides vs Exosomes: What’s the Difference?
Although Julaine, polynucleotides and exosomes all sit within regenerative aesthetics, they interact with the skin in different ways. Understanding how they work makes it much easier to see why we might choose one approach over another.
Julaine: Stimulating New Collagen
JULÄINE™ is an injectable biostimulatory treatment based on poly-L-lactic acid, or PLLA. Its main purpose is to encourage the skin to produce more of its own collagen.
Once injected into the appropriate tissue, the PLLA particles create a controlled biological response that activates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and other components of the skin’s supporting structure. Over the following weeks and months, new collagen gradually develops within the treated area.
This is why Julaine behaves differently from a conventional hyaluronic acid dermal filler. The objective is not simply to place a gel beneath the skin to create immediate volume, but to encourage the tissue itself to become better supported over time.
As new collagen develops, the skin can gradually become firmer, denser and more resilient. This makes Julaine particularly relevant when ageing begins to show as reduced firmness, declining elasticity, crepey skin or early laxity.
Polynucleotides: Supporting Skin Repair and Quality
Polynucleotides take a broader approach to skin regeneration. They are highly purified chains of nucleotides, the building blocks associated with DNA and RNA.
When introduced into the skin, polynucleotides help create an environment that supports tissue repair. One of their important actions is stimulating fibroblast activity, which can encourage collagen and elastin production. They also have a strong water-binding capacity, helping to improve hydration within the tissue.
Rather than primarily targeting facial structure, the emphasis is on improving the quality and condition of the skin itself.
This can be particularly useful where the skin has become thin, dehydrated, crepey or less resilient. The delicate under-eye area is a common example because the skin here is naturally thin and can show changes in hydration and elasticity relatively early.
At RAKUS Clinic, we use PolyPhil™ by Chroma for polynucleotide treatment. It can also be used beyond the under-eye area, including the face, décolletage and other areas where improving skin quality and supporting repair are priorities.
Exosomes: Supporting Communication Between Cells
Exosomes work differently again. Rather than acting primarily as a collagen-stimulating material, they are involved in the signalling processes cells use to communicate with one another.
Exosomes are microscopic extracellular vesicles that carry biological information, including proteins, lipids and other signalling molecules. These messages can influence the activity of surrounding cells and processes involved in repair and regeneration.
At RAKUS Clinic, we use EXO|E, a plant-derived exosome platform. Within aesthetic treatment, it is used to support regenerative activity in the skin, including processes associated with collagen and elastin production, hydration and recovery.
This signalling role is one reason exosomes can be particularly useful alongside treatments such as microneedling, laser and energy-based procedures. These treatments deliberately create a controlled stimulus within the skin, initiating a healing response. Exosomes can then be incorporated into the treatment strategy to support the regenerative environment as the skin repairs.
While there is some overlap between all three treatments, their emphasis is different: Julaine focuses more strongly on collagen and structural support, polynucleotides on tissue repair and skin quality, and exosomes on cellular signalling and regeneration.
When Is a Regenerative Treatment Not Enough?
“Regenerative” is an appealing word, but it should not create unrealistic expectations.
If someone has significant facial volume loss, stimulating collagen will not necessarily reproduce what can be achieved with appropriately placed dermal filler. Similarly, if there is established skin laxity, improving skin quality alone is unlikely to lift the tissue substantially.
If pigmentation or vascular redness is the main concern, a regenerative injectable does not directly target excess pigment or visible vessels in the way an appropriate laser or light-based technology can.
This is why we assess the face and skin as a whole. Sometimes Julaine, polynucleotides or exosomes are appropriate, while in other cases another treatment may be better suited. When several aspects of skin ageing begin to overlap, the best approach may involve addressing different concerns separately.
FAQs About Regenerative Aesthetics
At what age should you start regenerative skin treatments?
There is no ideal age. Treatment should be based on the condition of the skin rather than a birthday. Some patients develop changes in skin quality relatively early, while others maintain good elasticity and firmness for considerably longer.
Do regenerative treatments prevent skin ageing?
No treatment can prevent biological ageing. Regenerative aesthetics aims to support processes such as collagen production, tissue repair and skin quality, but normal ageing and environmental damage continue.
Are exosomes injected into the skin?
How exosomes are incorporated depends on the treatment protocol. At RAKUS Clinic, EXO|E can be used independently or alongside procedures including microneedling, laser, energy-based and injectable treatments. The appropriate method is determined as part of the treatment plan.
Are regenerative treatments only for the face?
No. Depending on the treatment and concern, regenerative approaches can also be considered for areas such as the neck, décolletage, hands and other areas of the body. Polynucleotides may also be used on the scalp for hair concerns.
Do I need regenerative treatments if my skin is already healthy?
Not necessarily. Treatment should have a clear indication. If the skin is healthy, resilient and not showing a concern that requires intervention, good skincare and consistent sun protection may be more appropriate than introducing an injectable simply for preventative purposes.
A More Individual Approach to Regenerative Skin Treatment
The growing interest in Julaine, polynucleotides and exosomes reflects a wider change within aesthetic medicine. We are becoming increasingly interested not only in what the skin looks like today, but also in its structure, quality and ability to repair and renew itself over time.
The important thing is not to group every regenerative treatment together. Julaine primarily gives us a way to stimulate collagen and improve structural support. Polynucleotides allow us to focus more closely on tissue repair, hydration and skin quality. Exosomes introduce another dimension by supporting the cellular signalling involved in regeneration and recovery.
Understanding these differences allows treatment to become much more precise.
If you are considering regenerative skin treatment, book a consultation at RAKUS Clinic in Knightsbridge, London to help establish what has changed within your skin and whether Julaine, polynucleotides, exosomes or another approach is appropriate. The aim is not to add more treatment, but to choose an approach that has a clear reason for being there.